Bodywork

Supplement: Revisions and information on later models / Bodywork

Plastic components
1 With the use of more and more plastic body components by the vehicle manufacturers (e.g. bumpers, spoilers, and in some cases major body panels), rectification of more serious damage to such items has become a matter of either entrusting repair work to a specialist in this field, or renewing complete components. Repair of such damage by the DIY owner is not really feasible owing to the cost of the equipment and materials required for effecting such repairs. The basic technique involves making a groove along the line of the crack in the plastic using a rotary burr in a power drill. The damaged part is then welded back together by using a hot air gun to heat up and fuse a plastic filler rod into the groove. Any excess plastic is then removed and the area rubbed down to a smooth finish. It is important that a filler rod of the correct plastic is used, as body components can be made of a variety of different types (e.g. polycarbonate, ABS, polypropylene). Damage of a less serious nature (abrasions, minor cracks, etc.) can be repaired by the DIY owner using a two-part epoxy filler repair material. Once mixed in equal proportions, this is used in similar fashion to the bodywork filler used on metal panels. The filler is usually cured in twenty to thirty minutes, ready for sanding and painting.

2 If the owner is renewing a complete component himself, or if he has repaired it with epoxy filler, he will be left with the problem of finding a suitable paint for finishing which is compatible with the type of plastic used. At one time the use of a universal paint was not possible owing to the complex range of plastics encountered in body component applications. Standard paints, generally speaking, will not bond to plastic or rubber satisfactorily. However, it is now possible to obtain a plastic body parts finishing kit which consists of a pre-primer treatment, a primer and coloured top coat.

Full instructions are normally supplied with a kit, but basically the method of use is to first apply the pre-primer to the component concerned and allow it to dry for up to 30 minutes. Then the primer is applied and left to dry for about an hour before finally applying the special coloured top coat. The result is a correctly coloured component where the paint will flex with the plastic or rubber, a property that standard paint does not normally possess.

Rear view mirrors
Interior
3 The mirror is of safety type, “breaking” off its ball fixing upon impact from a front seat occupant.

4 To remove the mirror, grip the head and push it towards the windscreen; the ball socket will release (photo).

17.4 Interior mirror base

5 Extract the screws from the mounting plate (photo).

17.5 Interior mirror mounting plate

6 When refitting the mirror, engage the front of the socket on the ball and then twist the mirror rearwards and upwards.

Exterior
7 On models without remotely-controlled type exterior mirrors, the ball-jointed mirror is held in position by the two self-tapping screws which secure the triangular trim plate inside the car (photos).

17.7A Exterior mirror trim plate

17.7B Withdrawing the exterior mirror

8 To dismantle the mirror, extract the balljoint fixing screw, but take care as considerable force is exerted by the interior coil spring (photo).

17.8 Extracting the mirror balljoint screw

Door armrest
9 A redesigned armrest is used on some models. This is simply secured by two self-tapping screws (photo).

17.9 Door armrest

Tailgate (Turbo ie model) - component
removal and refitting
10 The tailgate on these models is of plastic injection-moulded type, with a bonded window glass.

11 Renewal of the glass or repair of the tailgate should be entrusted to your FIAT dealer or a specialist repairer, due to the need for special products and techniques.

12 To remove the tailgate lock and handle, open the tailgate and extract the lock handle screws.

13 Prise off the link rod socket from the ball-pin (photo). Unbolt and remove the handle and lock.

17.13 Tailgate handle link rod (arrowed)

14 A remote type of tailgate release is fitted, with a control handle located by the driver’s seat. Access to the handle can be obtained by removing the seat and sill trim, and peeling back the carpet.

15 If a new cable is to be fitted, disconnect it from the tailgate latch, tape the new cable to the old one, and draw it carefully around the side panel and sill trim (photo).

17.15 Tailgate release cable (arrowed)

16 To remove the tailgate wiper motor, first take off the wiper arm and blade.

17 Extract the plastic clips and take off the wiper motor protective cover.

Disconnect, unbolt, and remove the wiper motor (photo).

17.17 Tailgate wiper motor

18 Refitting of all components is a reversal of removal.

Radiator grille (1301 cc Turbo ie model) -
removal and refitting
19 The grille is secured by a central screw and two upper clips. Use a screwdriver to prise the tabs on the upper clips downwards (photos).

17.19A Extracting a radiator grille screw

17.19B Prising down a radiator grille clip

20 Lift the grille upwards and forwards to disengage its lower mountings (photo).

17.20 Removing the radiator grille from a 1301 cc Turbo ie model

21 Refitting is a reversal of removal.

Radiator grille (1372 cc ie and 1372 cc Turbo ie
models) - removal
and refitting
22 The radiator grille on these models is secured by screws at the top edge (photo).

Raise and support the bonnet. Undo the retaining screws, then lift the grille clear.

17.22 Radiator grille screw removal on a 1372 cc SX ie model

23 Refit in the reverse order of removal.

Bumpers (1301 cc Turbo ie, 1372 cc ie and 1372 cc
Turbo ie models) -
removal and refitting
Removal - front
24 Remove the radiator grille as previously described, to provide access to the bumper upper mounting screws (photo).

17.24 Front bumper upper mounting screw (arrowed)

25 The ends of the bumpers are secured with bolts and captive nuts but to reach them, the underwing shields must be released and pulled away.

26 Disconnect the leads from the auxiliary lamps which are mounted in the spoiler, and then lift the bumper/spoiler from the car.

Removal - rear
27 Open the tailgate to provide access to the bumper upper mounting screws.

28 Disconnect the leads from the rear number plate lamp. Unscrew the lower mounting nuts (photo).

17.28 Rear bumper lower mounting nut

29 Disconnect the bumper end fixings, which are accessible under the rear wing edges (photo).

17.29 Unscrewing a bumper end fixing nut

Refitting - front and rear 30 Refitting either front or rear bumpers is a reversal of removal.

Rear hinged windows -
removal and refitting
31 These have toggle-type catches and hinges bolted directly through the glass (photo).

17.31 Rear window toggle-type catch

32 To remove the window glass, have an assistant support it, and then unscrew the cross-head hinge screws and the toggle catch anchor plate screws. Lift the glass away. If the toggle catch must be removed from the glass, first drive out the handle pivot pin and then, using a pin wrench or circlip pliers, unscrew the ring nut which secures the handle to the glass.

33 When refitting the screws or ring nut to the glass, make sure that the insulating washers are in good condition to prevent metal-to-glass contact.

Door trim panel
(Turbo ie model) -
removal and refitting
34 The operations are similar to those described in Chapter 12, Section 11, except that electric windows are fitted instead of a conventional mechanical regulator and handle. Before the trim panel can be withdrawn, the window control switches must be disconnected from the wiring plug, and the plug fed through the panel aperture (photos).

17.34A Armrest electric window switches

17.34B Disconnecting an electric window regulator switch plug

17.34C Door interior showing electric window motor (arrowed)